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Majestic Mountain Journey
Shey Phoksundo Lake in Upper Dolpo Nepal

Nepal

Upper Dolpo Circuit Trek

Trans-Himalayan wilderness, turquoise Shey Phoksundo and the Crystal Mountain

Days
22
Highest point
5,350 m
Difficulty
Extreme
From
$2,800

Photo: Wikimedia Commons contributor, CC BY-SA 4.0

Last checked

Key facts

Duration
22 days round trip from Juphal
Highest point
5,350 m (17,552 ft) at Kang La Pass
Total distance
220 km
Difficulty
Extreme, 5 of 5
Best months
May to October
Months to avoid
January to February and December
Starts and ends
Juphal (via Nepalgunj flight) to Juphal
Accommodation
camping
Permits
Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit (RAP), Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit
Typical cost
$2,800 to $4,400 per person, guided
Experience needed
Extensive prior high-altitude trekking experience over 5,000 meters is an absolute prerequisite.

Why is Upper Dolpo the ultimate wilderness trek?

Tucked behind the Dhaulagiri massif on the Tibetan plateau, Upper Dolpo is cut off by towering mountain passes that are snowbound for half the year. It possesses no motor roads, no commercial teahouses, and preserves a pre-Buddhist Bon Po way of life that has vanished elsewhere.

Villagers continue ancestral caravan migrations across Himalayan passes to trade grain for Tibetan rock salt.

The region was chronicled in Peter Matthiessen's bestselling 1978 book 'The Snow Leopard' and Eric Valli's Oscar-nominated film 'Himalaya'.

Trekkers must be completely self-reliant with camping logistics, food supplies, and medical equipment.

Can you trek Upper Dolpo during the summer monsoon?

Yes. Upper Dolpo sits in the rain shadow of the high Himalayas, meaning the region receives virtually no monsoon rain from June through August while the rest of Nepal experiences heavy downpours.

Summer is the prime agricultural season in Dolpo when high meadows blossom with wildflowers and barley fields turn bright green.

However, internal flights between Nepalgunj and Juphal can face weather delays due to cloud cover in the southern lowlands.

September and October provide crisp stable autumn weather with crystal-clear skies across all high mountain passes.

Upper Dolpo Circuit Trek itinerary, day by day

The full 22 day schedule, with sleeping altitude, walking hours and overnight stop for every day. The acclimatisation days are the ones that decide whether people finish.

Elevation profile for the Upper Dolpo Circuit TrekThe route starts at 2,140 m, peaks at 5,350 m on day 8 at Shey Gompa, and finishes at 1,400 m.1357911131517192122
Sleeping altitude by dayPeak: 5,350 m on day 8, Shey Gompa
  1. Day 1

    Flight from Nepalgunj to Juphal and trek to Dunai

    • 2,140 m
    • Down 330 m
    • 10 km
    • 3 h
    • Sleep: Dunai

    Fly into the mountains of Dolpa and hike downstream beside the Thuli Bheri river to district headquarters at Dunai.

    Read the day

    Meet the expedition crew of Sherpa guides, cook team, and pack mules at Juphal airstrip.

    Dunai features the final government administrative services and police checkpoints.

    Transport: Morning 35 min flight from Nepalgunj to Juphal

    Highlight: Flying into remote Juphal airstrip

  2. Day 2

    Dunai to Chhepka

    • 2,838 m
    • Up 698 m
    • 15 km
    • 6 h
    • Sleep: Chhepka

    Enter Shey Phoksundo National Park and ascend alongside the roaring turquoise Phoksundo Khola.

    Read the day

    Pass through dense bamboo and pine forests filled with wild walnut and cedar trees.

    Register park permits at the military checkpoint in Sulighat.

    Highlight: Entering Shey Phoksundo National Park

  3. Day 3

    Chhepka to Jharana Hotel

    • 3,110 m
    • Up 272 m
    • 12 km
    • 5 h
    • Sleep: Jharana

    Climb past the confluence of Suli Gad and Phoksundo Khola to a viewpoint opposite Nepal's highest waterfall.

    Read the day

    Gaze across the valley at the thundering 167-meter Suligad waterfall draining Lake Phoksundo.

    Catch your first distant glimpse of the turquoise sheen of the lake from the ridge top.

    Highlight: 167-meter Suligad Waterfall view

  4. Day 4

    Jharana to Ringmo and Shey Phoksundo Lake

    • 3,611 m
    • Up 501 m
    • 8 km
    • 4 h
    • Sleep: Ringmo Lake Camp

    Descend into birch groves and climb to the traditional Bon village of Ringmo on the shores of Lake Phoksundo.

    Read the day

    Lake Phoksundo is an alpine wonder: 145 meters deep with no aquatic life, giving it intense cobalt color.

    Ringmo village preserves centuries-old Bon Po culture with counter-clockwise prayer wheels.

    Highlight: Arrival at deep turquoise Shey Phoksundo Lake

  5. Day 5

    Rest and exploration at Phoksundo Lake

    • 3,611 m
    • Up 100 m
    • 5 km
    • 3 h
    • Sleep: Ringmo Lake Camp

    Spend a full acclimatization day visiting the ancient Bon monastery of Pal Sentan Thasung Chholing Gompa.

    Read the day

    Walk along the lake's southern shoreline to the 900-year-old cliffside Bon monastery.

    Acclimatize in preparation for the severe 5,000 m mountain passes ahead.

    Highlight: 900-year-old Bon monastery

  6. Day 6

    Ringmo to Phoksundo Khola Camp

    • 3,750 m
    • Up 139 m
    • 11 km
    • 5 to 6 h
    • Sleep: Phoksundo Khola Camp

    Follow the dramatic cliff trail made famous in Eric Valli's movie Himalaya along the lake's sheer western precipice.

    Read the day

    The 'devil's trail' is narrow and supported by wooden logs cantilevered out over the abyss.

    Camp in pine and birch forests at the western inlet where the river feeds the lake.

    Highlight: Cliff-hanging trail along Lake Phoksundo

  7. Day 7

    Phoksundo Khola to Kang La High Camp

    • 4,500 m
    • Up 750 m
    • 9 km
    • 5 to 6 h
    • Sleep: Kang La Base Camp

    Ascend a desolate glacial valley through barren scree to pitch camp beneath the looming wall of Kang La.

    Read the day

    Leave trees behind as the route enters the arid trans-Himalayan rain shadow plateau.

    Prepare cold weather clothing for a sub-zero night in high alpine wilderness.

    Highlight: Stark trans-Himalayan glacial valley

  8. Day 8

    Cross Kang La Pass to Shey Gompa

    • 5,350 m
    • Up 850 m
    • 14 km
    • 7 to 8 h
    • Sleep: Shey Gompa

    Climb through steep gravel gullies to cross the 5,350 m Kang La Pass and descend into mythical Shey Gompa.

    Read the day

    From the pass, gaze across the barren valleys of Upper Dolpo extending toward Tibet.

    Camp beside the 11th century Shey Gompa sitting beneath the sacred Crystal Mountain.

    Highlight: Summit of Kang La Pass (5,350 m)

  9. Day 9

    Rest and spiritual exploration at Shey Gompa

    • 4,280 m
    • Up 200 m
    • 6 km
    • 3 to 4 h
    • Sleep: Shey Gompa

    Explore the ancient monastery of Shey Gompa, celebrated in Peter Matthiessen's classic book The Snow Leopard.

    Read the day

    Visit the meditation caves and ancient scroll libraries of the Kagyupa Buddhist monastery.

    Circumambulate parts of the sacred Crystal Mountain (Shel-ri).

    Highlight: 11th century Shey Gompa and Crystal Mountain

  10. Day 10

    Shey Gompa to Namgung via Saldang La

    • 4,430 m
    • Up 920 m
    • 13 km
    • 6 h
    • Sleep: Namgung

    Cross the Saldang La (5,200 m) pass and drop down into the deep red and ochre earth canyons of Namgung.

    Read the day

    The landscape mirrors the arid Tibetan plateau with sweeping sand hills and eroded clay castles.

    Visit Namgung Gompa nestled against towering sheer cliff walls.

    Highlight: Saldang La pass and red clay canyons

  11. Day 11

    Namgung to Saldang Village

    • 3,770 m
    • Down 660 m
    • 9 km
    • 4 h
    • Sleep: Saldang

    Descend into the broad agricultural basin of Saldang, the largest and wealthiest settlement in Upper Dolpo.

    Read the day

    Saldang spreads across five hillside hamlets with fortified stone architecture.

    Historic trade hub where salt caravans from Tibet exchange grain for wool.

    Highlight: Ancient caravan village of Saldang

  12. Day 12

    Saldang to Yangjer Gompa excursion

    • 4,590 m
    • Up 820 m
    • 14 km
    • 6 h
    • Sleep: Saldang

    Day hike along the northern border trade trail to Yangjer Gompa, the richest Buddhist monastery in Dolpo.

    Read the day

    Follow the Nagon Khola through wild desert gorges near the frontier of Tibet.

    View ancient gilded statues and historic silk thangkas inside Yangjer Gompa.

    Highlight: Treasures of Yangjer Gompa

  13. Day 13

    Saldang to Komash Village

    • 4,060 m
    • Up 290 m
    • 11 km
    • 5 h
    • Sleep: Komash

    Traverse high arid contours above the river valley with views of blue sheep herds on the slopes.

    Read the day

    Spot herds of Himalayan blue sheep (bharal) and signs of the elusive snow leopard.

    Camp beside the stone walled fields of peaceful Komash village.

    Highlight: Wildlife spotting in trans-Himalayan valleys

  14. Day 14

    Komash to Shimen

    • 3,870 m
    • Up 400 m
    • 12 km
    • 5 to 6 h
    • Sleep: Shimen

    Cross a 4,500 m pass and descend through apricot groves and mani walls to Shimen village.

    Read the day

    Admire long mani walls etched with Tibetan sacred mantras along the ancient trade trails.

    Camp under starry high-altitude skies.

    Highlight: Centuries-old stone carved mani walls

  15. Day 15

    Shimen to Tinje Village

    • 4,110 m
    • Up 240 m
    • 14 km
    • 6 h
    • Sleep: Tinje

    Walk through wide sunny valleys alongside the Panjyang river to the sprawling pastures of Tinje.

    Read the day

    Tinje features an ancient airstrip plateau used for high-altitude supplies.

    Interact with nomadic yak herders camping in traditional yak-hair tents.

    Highlight: Nomadic yak pastoralism in Tinje

  16. Day 16

    Tinje to Yak Kharka

    • 4,700 m
    • Up 590 m
    • 13 km
    • 5 to 6 h
    • Sleep: Yak Kharka

    Climb past the river confluence toward the high grazing pastures beneath the Jeng La pass.

    Read the day

    Pitch camp in a secluded alpine meadow surrounded by grazing yaks.

    Rest early for the demanding crossing of Jeng La the following morning.

    Highlight: High alpine grazing pastures of Yak Kharka

  17. Day 17

    Cross Jeng La Pass to Tokyu and Dho Tarap

    • 5,110 m
    • Up 410 m
    • 16 km
    • 7 to 8 h
    • Sleep: Dho Tarap

    Cross the 5,110 m Jeng La pass with panorama of Dhaulagiri before descending into the fertile Dho Tarap valley.

    Read the day

    From Jeng La summit, gaze southward at the colossal north face of the Dhaulagiri massif.

    Dho Tarap is the highest human permanent settlement in the world at 4,040 m.

    Highlight: Jeng La Pass (5,110 m) & Dho Tarap valley

  18. Day 18

    Rest and monastery visits in Dho Tarap

    • 4,040 m
    • Up 100 m
    • 5 km
    • 3 h
    • Sleep: Dho Tarap

    Explore the fascinating mix of Bon Po and Nyingmapa Buddhist monasteries across the Dho Tarap valley.

    Read the day

    Visit Shipchhok Gompa and the Bon sanctuary on the valley rim.

    Experience the daily life of Tarap residents who harvest barley in brief summer months.

    Highlight: World's highest permanent village settlement

  19. Day 19

    Dho Tarap to Tarap Khola (Kamakharka)

    • 3,800 m
    • Down 240 m
    • 15 km
    • 6 h
    • Sleep: Kamakharka

    Enter the spectacular Tarap gorge where the trail drops down narrow stone stairways beside churning rapids.

    Read the day

    The river cuts through vertical canyon walls where bridges are replaced by timber planks.

    Dramatic landscape transition from open desert into steep rocky canyon country.

    Highlight: Stunning Tarap river gorge canyon

  20. Day 20

    Kamakharka to Tarakot

    • 2,540 m
    • Down 1,260 m
    • 14 km
    • 5 to 6 h
    • Sleep: Tarakot

    Descend out of the canyon to reach the ancient fortified hilltop village of Tarakot beside the Bheri river.

    Read the day

    Cross modern suspension bridges as the canyon widens into terraced agricultural valleys.

    Tarakot was once a royal fort capital known as Dzong.

    Highlight: Ancient fortress town of Tarakot

  21. Day 21

    Tarakot to Dunai and Juphal

    • 2,470 m
    • Down 70 m
    • 18 km
    • 6 to 7 h
    • Sleep: Juphal

    Follow the Bheri river valley back to Dunai and climb the final switchbacks to Juphal airstrip.

    Read the day

    Celebrate the completion of the three-week expedition with the trekking crew.

    Repack equipment for the morning mountain flight.

    Highlight: Closing celebration with expedition team

  22. Day 22

    Flight from Juphal to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu

    • 1,400 m
    • Down 1,070 m
    • 350 km
    • 0 h
    • Sleep: Kathmandu (Hotel)

    Early morning mountain flight over the foothills to Nepalgunj and connecting flight to Kathmandu.

    Read the day

    Gaze out the aircraft window at the jagged snow peaks of western Nepal.

    Return to Kathmandu for comfortable hotel rest and well-earned relaxation.

    Transport: Flight from Juphal to Nepalgunj, connecting flight to Kathmandu

    Highlight: Scenic mountain flight back to Kathmandu

What is included and what is not

Rugged wilderness expedition crossing multiple 5,000 m mountain passes. Requires full camping logistics, self-sufficiency, and high endurance in remote trans-Himalayan desert country.

Included in a guided price

  • Restricted Area Permit

    Upper Dolpo special permit covering the full expedition itinerary.

  • Park entry permit

    Shey Phoksundo National Park conservation permissions.

  • Expedition crew

    Licensed trekking guide, assistant guides, cook team, and pack animals.

  • Full camping logistics

    Four-season tents, dining tent with gas heaters, toilet tent, and kitchen gear.

Not included, budget for it

  • Domestic airfare

    Return flights connecting Kathmandu, Nepalgunj, and Juphal.

  • Emergency evacuation insurance

    Compulsory comprehensive high-altitude search and helicopter rescue policy.

  • Personal gear and sleeping bag

    Cold weather sleeping bag rated to -20C and personal clothing.

Permits for the Upper Dolpo Circuit Trek

  • Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit (RAP)

    Issued by Department of Immigration Nepal

    Foreign
    NPR 67,500
    SAARC
    NPR 67,500

    Costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days, plus USD 50 for each additional day. Minimum two trekkers with licensed agency.

  • Shey Phoksundo National Park Permit

    Issued by Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation

    Foreign
    NPR 3,000
    SAARC
    NPR 1,500

    Park conservation fee for wildlife and habitat preservation.

What to pack

Elite mountain endurance and stamina to endure three straight weeks of camping, thin air, and consecutive 7 to 9 hour marching days.

Expedition sleeping

  • Four-season sleeping bag (-20C rating)
  • Inflatable sleeping mattress (high R-value)
  • Silk sleeping bag liner

Alpine clothing

  • Heavyweight expedition down parka
  • Gore-Tex waterproof jacket and pants
  • Multiple merino wool base layers
  • Insulated mountaineering mitts

Expedition accessories

  • Solar charger panel with high-capacity power bank
  • Water filtration gravity filter
  • Personal satellite messenger (Garmin InReach)
  • Microspikes

Frequently asked questions

Sources checked

Fees and regulations in Nepal change. This page was last verified on 10 October 2026.